janetupnorth
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Ok, I'm posting this for those of you as ignorant on textile weaves as I am! I had to look this up because someone ALREADY asked me!
Dobby weave (Striped kitchen towel set)
Dobby weaves produce allover figured fabrics. They are made on looms having a dobby attachment, with narrow strips of wood instead of Jacquard cards. Dobby weaves are limited to simple, small geometric figures, with the design repeated frequently, and are fairly inexpensive to produce. (Ency. Brittanica)
Another advantage to a dobby loom is the ability to handle much longer sequences in the pattern. A weaver working on a treadled loom must remember the entire sequence of treadlings that make up the pattern, and must keep track of where they are in the sequence at all times. Getting lost or making a mistake can ruin the cloth being woven. On a manual dobby the sequence that makes up the pattern is represented by the chain of dobby bars. The length of the sequence is limited by the length of the dobby chain. This can easily be several hundred dobby bars, although an average dobby chain will have approximately fifty bars. A computer controlled loom can handle sequences that are virtually unlimited. Many newer cloth design techniques such as network drafting can only reach their full potential on a dobby loom. (Wikipedia)
Not to be confused with Dobby in Harry Potter
Twill-Weave (Windowpane Placemat Set)
Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads, over one and under two or more, and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows that creates the characteristic diagonal pattern. Examples of twill fabric are chino, denim, gabardine, tweed and serge.
Twill, from a practical standpoint, is a warm weather material, less well suited for cold weather. It also tends to drape well. (Wikipedia)
Jacquard Weave/Loom (Cranberry Vine Guest Towel Set)
The Jacquard Loom is a mechanical loom, invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801, which utilized holes punched in pasteboard, each row of which corresponded to one row of the design. Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card and the many cards that comprised the entire design of the textile were strung together in order. It was based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen Basile Bouchon (1725), Jean Falcon (1728) and Jacques Vaucanson (1740) [1].
Each hole in the card corresponds to a "Bolus" hook, which can either be up or down. The hook raises or lowers the harness which carries and guides the warp thread so that the weft will either lie above or below it. The sequence of raised and lowered threads is what creates the pattern. Each hook can be connected via the harness to a number of threads, allowing more than one repeat of a pattern. A loom with a 400 hook head might have four threads connected to each hook, resulting in a fabric that is 1600 warp ends wide with four repeats of the weave going across.
The Jacquard loom was the first machine to use punch cards to control a sequence of operations. Although it did no computation based on them, it is considered an important step in the history of computing hardware. The ability to change the pattern of the loom's weave by simply changing cards was an important conceptual precursor to the development of computer programming. Specifically, Charles Babbage planned to use cards to store programs in his Analytical engine. At first sight this may seem unremarkable but it was a clear turning point in the ability to store and re-use machine instructions. Whilst Babbage did not live to see that his ideas were viable, they have since been proved to work reliably.
Close-up view of comber board, harness, mails, weights (Lingoes) and warp with 1040 ends
Close-up view of the 8 x 26 hole punch cards - one card per pick (weft) in the fabricThe term "Jacquard loom" is a misnomer. It is the "Jacquard head" that adapts to a great many dobby looms such as the "Dornier" brand that allow the weaving machine to then create the intricate patterns often seen in jacquard weaving.
Jacquard looms, whilst relatively common in the textile industry, are not as ubiquitous as dobby looms which are usually faster and much cheaper to operate. However unlike jacquard looms they are not capable of producing so many different weaves from one warp. Modern jacquard looms are computer controlled and can have thousands of hooks. And inevitably, unlike Jacquard's original invention there is now no need for the use of punched cards - instead the patterns are literally computer controlled.
The threading of a jacquard loom is so labor intensive that many looms are threaded only once. Subsequent warps are then tied in to the existing warp with the help of a knotting robot which ties each new thread on individually. Even for a small loom with only a few thousand warp ends the process of re-threading can take days. (Wikipedia)
Dobby weave (Striped kitchen towel set)
Dobby weaves produce allover figured fabrics. They are made on looms having a dobby attachment, with narrow strips of wood instead of Jacquard cards. Dobby weaves are limited to simple, small geometric figures, with the design repeated frequently, and are fairly inexpensive to produce. (Ency. Brittanica)
Another advantage to a dobby loom is the ability to handle much longer sequences in the pattern. A weaver working on a treadled loom must remember the entire sequence of treadlings that make up the pattern, and must keep track of where they are in the sequence at all times. Getting lost or making a mistake can ruin the cloth being woven. On a manual dobby the sequence that makes up the pattern is represented by the chain of dobby bars. The length of the sequence is limited by the length of the dobby chain. This can easily be several hundred dobby bars, although an average dobby chain will have approximately fifty bars. A computer controlled loom can handle sequences that are virtually unlimited. Many newer cloth design techniques such as network drafting can only reach their full potential on a dobby loom. (Wikipedia)
Not to be confused with Dobby in Harry Potter
Twill-Weave (Windowpane Placemat Set)
Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads, over one and under two or more, and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows that creates the characteristic diagonal pattern. Examples of twill fabric are chino, denim, gabardine, tweed and serge.
Twill, from a practical standpoint, is a warm weather material, less well suited for cold weather. It also tends to drape well. (Wikipedia)
Jacquard Weave/Loom (Cranberry Vine Guest Towel Set)
The Jacquard Loom is a mechanical loom, invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801, which utilized holes punched in pasteboard, each row of which corresponded to one row of the design. Multiple rows of holes were punched on each card and the many cards that comprised the entire design of the textile were strung together in order. It was based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen Basile Bouchon (1725), Jean Falcon (1728) and Jacques Vaucanson (1740) [1].
Each hole in the card corresponds to a "Bolus" hook, which can either be up or down. The hook raises or lowers the harness which carries and guides the warp thread so that the weft will either lie above or below it. The sequence of raised and lowered threads is what creates the pattern. Each hook can be connected via the harness to a number of threads, allowing more than one repeat of a pattern. A loom with a 400 hook head might have four threads connected to each hook, resulting in a fabric that is 1600 warp ends wide with four repeats of the weave going across.
The Jacquard loom was the first machine to use punch cards to control a sequence of operations. Although it did no computation based on them, it is considered an important step in the history of computing hardware. The ability to change the pattern of the loom's weave by simply changing cards was an important conceptual precursor to the development of computer programming. Specifically, Charles Babbage planned to use cards to store programs in his Analytical engine. At first sight this may seem unremarkable but it was a clear turning point in the ability to store and re-use machine instructions. Whilst Babbage did not live to see that his ideas were viable, they have since been proved to work reliably.
Close-up view of comber board, harness, mails, weights (Lingoes) and warp with 1040 ends
Close-up view of the 8 x 26 hole punch cards - one card per pick (weft) in the fabricThe term "Jacquard loom" is a misnomer. It is the "Jacquard head" that adapts to a great many dobby looms such as the "Dornier" brand that allow the weaving machine to then create the intricate patterns often seen in jacquard weaving.
Jacquard looms, whilst relatively common in the textile industry, are not as ubiquitous as dobby looms which are usually faster and much cheaper to operate. However unlike jacquard looms they are not capable of producing so many different weaves from one warp. Modern jacquard looms are computer controlled and can have thousands of hooks. And inevitably, unlike Jacquard's original invention there is now no need for the use of punched cards - instead the patterns are literally computer controlled.
The threading of a jacquard loom is so labor intensive that many looms are threaded only once. Subsequent warps are then tied in to the existing warp with the help of a knotting robot which ties each new thread on individually. Even for a small loom with only a few thousand warp ends the process of re-threading can take days. (Wikipedia)
